Saturday, December 31, 2011

Landscaping Weed Barrier Fabric - How to Install Landscape Fabric

!±8± Landscaping Weed Barrier Fabric - How to Install Landscape Fabric

When using landscaping fabric, preparing the project grounds is just as important as the quality of materials you use. While a lot of people will lay weed barrier directly over existing or barely prepared area, the best performance and longest lasting results are more likely with good preparation.

To Start

Measure and mark the area. Most professionals use inverted marking paint but you can also use string, sticks, rocks, hose, or whatever you have available. Buy or order your landscape fabric to make sure it's on hand when you start your project.

Remove all vegetation

Once your project areas are measured and marked, remove all vegetation. Depending on the area you're working on, there are several ways to remove plants and vegetation.

In lawn areas that are to be covered and / or become planting areas, we most always do a double application of a non-selective herbicide such as round up. Make sure the area is actively growing, spray the herbicide as directed, and then let it do its work. In 5 to 7 days after the application, start watering the area to encourage the growth of what may have survived and any seeds that may be viable. Repeat the herbicide application. You may also want to repeat again if necessary.

In some cases we use a sod cutter to remove the top few inches of lawn. Generally, this is after we have killed all the weeds and it is mostly done to recess the area and make room for mulch, rocks, or other ground cover.

I have seen other professionals install landscaping fabric over areas that were only sod cut but not killed with an herbicide. I don't recommend it. Sod cutters only cut off the top surface of the grass and really do nothing for killing the roots. This could be a future problem if you have deep rooted aggressive weeds or grasses such as Bermuda.

For non-lawn and old flower bed areas, you can use the herbicide method mentioned above. And for all areas including lawn areas, you can use the herbicide method or solorization.

Solarization is basically baking the soil and exposing it to extremely high temperatures that kill weed seeds and vegetation. This process is very simple and works very well but takes the longest to do.

Prepare The Soil

If you plan on planting plants in areas where you install the fabric, you need to work in soil amendments and nutrients before installation. If possible, and I do recommend, use organic slow release nutrients and compost. You should also test the Ph of the soil and add lime or sulfur in the right amounts if needed.

Once the weed barrier is in place, you'll only be able to add top surface applied chemical fertilizers and you won't be able to work the soil. Of course, you can add amendments to each plant hole as you plant it. However, it's time consuming, messy, and doesn't extend beyond the root zone of the plant.

Use a rotor tiller or spade to turn in the amendments and nutrients 4 to 6 inches into the soil surface. Remove stones, sticks, debris, and break up clods. Rake the surface area smooth.

Install Watering System

If you have an idea of where your plants are going to be and you plan to have an automatic drip sprinkler system, now is the time to place it. Lay out your main feeder hose and run drip tube and emitters to where your plants will be. If you plan on a bubbler system, it should have been installed before the area was manicured.

Installing The Fabric

The easiest way to do this is to lay the barrier out first before you plant your plants. Some folks recommend you use securing pins to hold the material in place. It is an option. However, if you'd rather save the expense, you can hold down the edges with the ground cover you intend to use. We usually just place sacks or piles of mulch, rock, or other ground cover around the edges and spread it out after we're done planting.

I've also seen a few people plant the plants first and then fit it over the tops of the plants. This is usually hard on the vegetation, breaks branches, and is very time consuming.

You can use a sharp knife or utility razor to cut the cloth but the best and easiest way we've found to cut long runs is to use a sharp pair of scissors. And instead of working the scissors, hold them half open to where the blades form a "V". Hold the material where both blades in the "V" meet and push them through the cloth.

Planting

Mark your plant area or set out plants to get a visual. Use a sharp knife, razor, or scissors and cut an "x" in the fabric the size of your pot or root ball. Don't cut the pot size out. Just cut the "x" and fold the flaps under. Make the hole. Place and plant the plant correctly. Gently place the flaps up next to the plant.

Now place 2 to 4 inches of your chosen ground cover over the area making sure to hold down the cut flaps and keep them in place.

Cut off any excess landscaping fabric around the edges making sure it stays tight around the edges.


Landscaping Weed Barrier Fabric - How to Install Landscape Fabric

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Friday, December 16, 2011

Growing a Bald Cypress Bonsai

!±8± Growing a Bald Cypress Bonsai

Many trees in the cypress, or Cupressaceae, conifer family are very popular with bonsai enthusiasts. The Bald Cypress is perhaps the most commonly cultivated variety, and two other favorites include the Dwarf Hinoki Cypress and the Italian Cypress.

The Bald Cypress

The Bald Cypress (Taxodium distichum) is a great tree for beginning bonsai enthusiasts, and is a species often found in bonsai starter kits. In parts of the southern United States it can be harvested in the wild. The Bald Cypress is a hardy, deciduous conifer admired for its elegant looks. It has feather-like green leaves, fern-like graceful branches and cinnamon-colored bark that lend it an ancient appearance when grown as a bonsai. The leaves grow in flattened rows on the tree and can vary from the normal green color to a bright yellow. In the fall, the leaves will turn color from red to orange before falling off the tree.

The Bald cypress is a great tree for beginners because it is generally an adaptable plant, thriving in both formal and informal gardening styles. Thanks to extensive roots, this cypress can even be suitable for rock growing. Almost all bonsai growing techniques are applicable here.
Bald Cypress require a lot of water, as they grow along rivers and swamps in the wild. Their soil should always be kept moist through frequent watering or misting. They should be fed (fertilized) once a week in the spring, and then once every couple weeks during the summer and fall until dormancy begins. Bald cypress thrive in direct sun, and will do best outdoors.

Pruning Bald Cypress can be a bit of a task. Because of the delicacy of this cypress' leaves and branches, it is recommended that you prune with your fingers instead of tools, particularly if you have a younger tree. Cut marks from scissors can discolor and spoil the elegance of this bonsai. Its branches are also very sensitive to wire marks. It may take several tries to wire a Bald Cypress correctly, so be careful not to cut any marks into the branches.

With the right attention and dedication, growing a Bald Cypress can be easy, rewarding, and fulfilling!

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The Dwarf Hinoki Cypress has a broad, sweeping shape. Its branches droop a bit at the tips and it can grow from 50 to 75 feet in height, with a foliage spread of 10 to 20 feet. The Dwarf Hinoki is perhaps the easiest cypress variety to keep alive as a bonsai. However, it is also one of the most difficult trees to maintain in proper bonsai form because of the almost spinning pattern of its foliage.

The Italian Cypress, also known as Mediterranean Cypress, is ideal as an indoor bonsai. The Italian Cypress was originally found in the Mediterranean region and it is sensitive to cold weather. When growing and caring for an Italian Cypress as a bonsai, it is necessary to bring it indoors during winter weather. The leaves grow in a flattened pattern and the tree also grows small, elongated brown cones throughout the year, which is rare with bonsai trees.


Growing a Bald Cypress Bonsai

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Friday, December 2, 2011

Origami Willow Bonsai 1 - Trunk

Creating a wire frame, covering it with paper mache, leaving an inch of bare wire from each branch, then applying a layer of fine brown paper as tree bark. The first phase creating an origami willow bonsai, preparing the trunk of the tree. Origami Willow Bonsai The following is a list of materials needed for the entire project, and the steps taken to create the origami willow bonsai. Materials You'll need to gather a few materials, roughly in the order you'll need them: -20 Gage copper wire (or some other soft flexible wire) -50-100 1 inch strips of news print -1-2 cups of paper mache glue (1:5 flour:water, Stirred briskly, brought to a boil for a minute or two, then cooled before use (add a tsp of salt to prevent mould) -*Green, and brown tissue foil (you'll need to make this this: tissue, heavy duty kitchen foil, white glue) -Fine brown textured paper for the trunk of the bonsai (or some brown paint) -Small bonsai pot -Small piece of foam for flower arranging -A cup or two of coloured aquarium gravel -A small handful of sheet moss (optional) *for details on making tissue foil, see: Origami Rose Bush Bonsai 2 -Tissue Foil Tools Small pair of pliers for shaping the copper wire frame Sharp scissors Box cutter or razor knife 2" paint roller (for making tissue foil) Pencil & ruler 1 inch paint brush Thin, blunt stick for shaping Step 1 Plan Find Examples of bonsai trees Create a wire frame for the trunk and branches of your bonsai tree. Use a thin flexible wire. I use 20 ...

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